Knebel "Alte Reben" Riesling VDP.Ortswein 2022

關於此酒 : 

由於VDP的結構，馬蒂亞斯不得不考慮如何處理他的Hamm和Brückstück葡萄園，之前是分開裝瓶的，但並不被視為Grosse Lagen葡萄園。他的回應是將來自兩個葡萄園中最古老的葡萄園裝瓶成“Alte Reben”，並將其餘的葡萄降級為“Von den Terrassen”。這些葡萄藤年齡在60-70歲之間。80%在不銹鋼桶中發酵，20%在中性木桶中。

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 「2019年的Riesling Alte Reben發酵至15克殘糖，展現出濃烈而集中，又清晰且燧石的香氣，帶有壓碎的石頭和黃李以及純淨的板岩和檸檬香氣。口感上，這是一款豐富而強大，非常優雅和強烈，同時純淨且清新的霞多麗，具有實質感和握感。甜味的觸感完美融入其中。」

James Suckling - 「透明的檸檬、青蘋果和乾丁香。中等酒體帶有些許半乾感，但酸度有一種美麗的對比。」

About this wine :

Because of the VDP structures, Matthias had to figure out what to do with his Hamm and Brückstück sites, previously bottled separately, but not regarded as Grosse Lagen sites. His response was to bottle the oldest vineyards from both sites into this “Alte Reben” bottling and declassifying the rest into the “Von den Terrassen.” The vines are 60-70 years old. 80% is fermented stainless, 20% in neutral barrel.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - "Fermented to 15 grams of residual sugar, the 2019 Riesling Alte Reben displays an intense and concentrated yet clear and flinty bouquet of crushed stones and mirabelles with pure slate and lemon aromas. On the palate, this is a rich and powerful, very elegant and intense yet pure and refreshing Riesling with substance and grip. The touch of sweetness is perfectly integrated."

James Suckling - "Transparent lemons, green apples and dried cloves. Medium-bodied with a touch of off-dryness, but a pretty counterpoint of acidity."

關於 WEINGUT KNEBEL 酒莊 :

位於德國 Mosel 區精品小酒莊，家族歷史追溯至 1642年，自2016年成為德國 VDP Association 會員 (只有最好嘅德國酒莊先可以成為呢個協會嘅會員)，致力於天然葡萄酒 Natural Wine 理念，近年被受歐洲酒評高度推崇。

從小時候開始，Matthias Knebel 就深信自己會如父親 Rheinhard 一樣成為釀酒師。然而在青少年時期，Matthias 曾經動搖，因為他親眼看到這份工作的辛勞與艱苦。最終，他仍被葡萄酒本身的魅力所吸引，決定延續家族的傳統。  

Knebel 酒莊的重心完全放在 Riesling 上。而這些酒之所以迷人，正源自 Matthias 對讓葡萄展現各自風土語言的敏銳觸覺。在不同的葡萄園裡，每一層梯田都有其特殊的微風土（microterroir），受到土壤組成、日照方向與葡萄藤齡的高度變化所影響。來自 Hamm 的酒帶有草本香料氣息；Brückstück 則展現濃縮與優雅；Röttgen 帶來果香張力；而 Uhlen 則蘊含多汁而緊實的厚度。這些地塊在陡坡 Riesling 愛好者的眼中堪稱傳奇。隨著年份更迭，Matthias 不斷調整對各地塊的理解與回應，在氣候變遷的挑戰下，這些葡萄酒展現出日益提升的複雜度與精細度，以及迴響與活力。  

「我們認為自己是葡萄酒的陪伴者，」Matthias 說道，「陪伴的是一個理念、一個目標、一種風格的概念。但我們願意讓酒中的獨特性、稜角與特質顯現出來。我們希望每一個葡萄園、每一片地塊、每一個年份，甚至每一個酒桶，都能展現自己的性格，並觀察其發展。這意味著要接受大年份的豐滿特質，而不是刻意削弱；同樣地，也不會讓纖瘦的年份變得厚重。以這種方式，我們實踐著自然酒的理念。

About WEINGUT KNEBEL :

Located in the Mosel region of Germany, this boutique winery has a family history dating back to 1642. Since 2016, it has become a member of the prestigious VDP Association in Germany (Only the finest German wineries can become members of this association). The winery is dedicated to the concept of natural wine & has gained high acclaim from European wine critics in recent years.

As a child, there was no doubt in Matthias Knebel's mind that he would become a winegrower like his father, Rheinhard. But as a teenager, Matthias had second thoughts. He saw first hand just how grinding the work could be. Ultimately, he was convinced by the magic of wine itself and made the decision to follow family tradition. 

The total focus at Knebel is riesling. And the particular joy of the wines comes from Matthias’ feel for allowing the grape to translate the specific idioms of each of his parcels. Within these sites, every terrace has its own microterroir, influenced by a high variation in soil composition, exposition, and vine age. From Hamm come wines of herbal spiciness; Brückstück, concentration and elegance, Röttgen, fruity forcefulness, and Uhlen, succulent density. These sites are legendary among lovers of steep-slope riesling. From vintage to vintage, the wines have vaulted in complexity and finesse, resonance and vibrance as Matthias attunes himself to the character of each parcel and the demands of farming these sites in a warming world.

“We see ourselves as accompanists to our wines,” says Matthias. “Accompanying an idea, an objective, a concept of style. But we like to allow singularities, edginess, particularities to come through. We want every vineyard, every site, each vintage, and even each cask to be allowed to show its own character, to observe its development. That means accepting what we have been given: not making a big vintage leaner or a lean one heavier. In this way we’re committed to the ideas of natural wine.”